‘It continually blows my mind’ – a TikToker’s guide to Chongqing
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
I was born and raised in Chongqing, but it was only when I left the city and returned after studying in Canada for seven years, aged 24, that I truly discovered it. I experienced a kind of reverse culture shock, a wow moment. After visiting other cities around the world, I was struck by how vertical everything was. Modern Chongqing developed during the 1930s and ’40s when it became the hub of China. The city is built across steep mountainsides and valleys, with a sprawling urban architecture that has led to the name Cyberpunk City. By night, it’s a spectacle of lights, which is why it’s also called Electric City. I live in an apartment in Jiefangbei central business district, one of the newer, slightly more developed areas.

I launched @journeyofjackson, where I showcase my city on TikTok, seven months ago and the response has been incredible. I now have more than 347k followers – and I’m a city tour guide in my spare time. Living in Chongqing is definitely weird: the sensation of getting lost in the city is a wonderful, daily part of life. It’s crazy, disorientating and continually blows my mind.
The first place I would take anyone if I were their guide is Kuixinglou Square (魁星楼) [also known as Kuixing Tower]. You might be surprised when you visit: it looks like you’re on the ground in a busy city centre, but it turns out you’re high on a cliffside, connected by two sky bridges to the 22nd floor of an office building. Liziba Monorail Station (李子坝站) is the most iconic spot for a photo opportunity. The trains on Line 2 run above ground and right through a residential building. The monorail was built on tyres using Japanese technology, and the residents are not disturbed when trains pass through. One of my most viral videos is of the Linhua Road residential complex (临华路). The complex, which is 18 storeys and has no elevator, has fascinated me for years. Its unique structure – the ground floor is actually on the 12th floor – reflects Chongqing’s wild geography. The complex is situated in a valley surrounded by concrete and has a hub of greenery.

One of the most lively and historically interesting spots is Xiahao Lane (下浩里), which was established during the late Qing Dynasty and flourished with the growth of trade around the port. It’s a residential area turned trendy SoHo-like spot with designer shops, restaurants and cocktail bars. It reflects the city’s transformation from historic commercial hub to vibrant, contemporary metropolis.
Most tourists head to Hongyadong, where you will find our famous Diaojiaolou (吊脚楼) – wooden stilt houses built along the cliffside of a mountain, which were once common in the region, and offer breathtaking views. Inside Hongyadong, you’ll find the usual tourist attractions, nothing groundbreaking, but the experience of getting lost in the multilayered complex is truly unique. At night, the view of the “castle” from across the river transforms into a dreamy spectacle.



A very different cityscape is found at Gangyu Square (港渝广场), which has Raffles City towers as a backdrop, and is a place where gritty trading areas and modern skyscrapers are juxtaposed. It is hugely different from the fashionable business district of Jiefangbei (解放碑), which is the heart of Chongqing, and its Cyberpunk core. We call it Chongqing’s Times Square.
Yangtze River Cableway (长江索道) has striking aerial views. It once served as an affordable mode of transport for locals but is now mostly a tourist attraction connecting the Yuzhong Peninsula with the Nan’an district. But if you want thrills go to Raffles City Exploration Deck. The Horizontal Skyscraper offers incredible views and a swing – they push you out of the building for a few seconds. I’ve not tried it as it looks too scary. A small tip: you can enjoy the same view at the SHUA bar at the InterContinental Chongqing Raffles City without the price of the ticket to the observation deck.


There are two iconic specialties you have to try when eating in Chongqing. Chongqing-style noodles are served with a numbing spice made from Sichuan pepper – I grew up in one of the local eateries called Ju’yuan Noodle Shop (聚园面庄). The second is the Chongqing Hotpot, a dish that defines the region, which is a flaming hot spicy broth I call the soup of death! You can put anything in there and it tastes so good. It’s said that one in 30 people in the city is involved in the hotpot industry. Try Pipa Yuan, the largest outdoor hotpot restaurant, which seats 5,851 (which made the Guinness World Records for the most covers) and “Underground City” where many of the 1,600 air-raid shelters built during the second world war have been transformed into 1.1 million sq m of restaurants, stores and museums.
PLACES TO VISIT
Gangyu Square Yuzhong District
Jiefangbei Yuzhong District
Kuixing Tower Linjiangmen, Yuzhong District
Linhua Road residential complex Yuzhong District
Liziba Monorail Station No 39 Liziba Main Street, Yuzhong District
Xiahao Old Street Nanbin Road, Nan’an District
THINGS TO DO
Raffles City Tower Exploration Deck and Crystal Dining Hall L1, Raffles City, No 8 Jiesheng Street, Yuzhong District
Yangtze River Cable Car 151 Xinhua Road, Yuzhong District
WHERE TO EAT
Pipa Yuan Shiweixian Hot Pot (Loquat Park Hot pot) Wenfeng Main Street Laochang Jinzhu Cun, Nan’an District
Underground City from Longtou Temple Park in Yubei District to Ninth Street in Jiangbei District
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